Poslední tanec české legendy na boulderové stěně. Když zafandí syn, praskají uši, směje se

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S předstihem jste ohlásil, že v závodním lezení už se budete věnovat jen obtížnosti. I v boulderingu jste ale dosáhl na výrazné úspěchy včetně světového zlata. Přijde po posledním závodě nostalgie?

Zatím ji tolik necítím, protože jde o konec jen v jedné disciplíně a moje kariéra bude pokračovat v lezení na obtížnost. Na pátek se těším, Letná je neuvěřitelným místem, snad zabojuju minimálně o semifinále a prokoušu se do sobotních bojů, kdy bývá atmosféra ještě lepší.

Kolik času jste přípravě na svůj rozlučkový boulderový závod věnoval?

Současně jsem byl zapojen i do svých skalních projektů, které se částečně prolínaly s přípravou na Světový pohár. Některé prvky moderního boulderingu jsem nezkoušel tak často jako v minulých letech, ale hodně jsem se věnoval fyziu, abych zaléčil zlobivé rameno, s nímž jsem se potýkal.

Jak na tom aktuálně je?

Při normálním lezení mě nezlobí, ale bouldering je v moderním pojetí hodně krutá disciplína. Může dojít na situaci, kdy se budu rozhodovat, jestli zkusit ten pohyb. Loni jsem to řešil u relativně snadného boulderu, ale musel jsem si dodávat odvahu jít naplno, bohužel to nestačilo. Budu rád, když se do takové situace nedostanu. Chci udělat dobrou show pro diváky, ale zároveň musím myslet na budoucnost.

Vybaví se vám ještě rok 2023, kdy zaplněná Letná aplaudovala vašemu druhému místu?

To byla úplná pohádka. Top na třetím boulderu si velmi dobře pamatuju. Kdybych se přiblížil tomu, co jsem tehdy zažil, bylo by to úplně skvělé. Ale beru to tak, že prvotní úspěch bude postup do semifinále. Trochu se navýšily kvóty, do semifinále postupuje čtyřiadvacet lidí místo dvaceti a do finále osm místo šesti, což je příjemnější, ale mladá generace je stále početnější.

Konkurence je opět elitní.

V mužské kategorii je to v podstatě plná palba. Japonec Sorato Anraku je letos dominantní, vyhrál tři závody Světového poháru, jen blázen by ho nepovažoval za favorita. Korejec Dohyun Lee je také v dobré formě, i další Japonci budou silní.

Letos se v Praze bojuje o novou trofej ve tvaru části lezecké stěny. Co na ni říkáte?

Líbí se mi ta kontinuita, náš sport vychází z lezení na skalách a u té trofeje si představuju nevylezitelnou věž na pískovci.

Ani vy byste ji nezdolal?

Těžko říct, snažil bych se najít největší slabinu té věže. (úsměv)

Bude vás opět podporovat i přímo na Letné syn Hugo?

To je velká motivace. Naučil se velmi dobře fandit, když ho uslyším, tak to bude dobré.

Foto: Vlastimil Vacek, Sport.cz

Lezec Adam Ondra s manželkou Ivou.

Jak fandí?

To by vám praskly uši, on ode mě okoukal i můj zvukový projev při lezení.

Co vás čeká po Světovém poháru v Praze?

Kromě skalních plánů je to především mistrovství světa v Soulu na konci září, kde už tedy absolvuju jen lezení na obtížnost.

Jaké jsou ty skalní plány?

Ten dlouhodobý je vylézt další cestu 9c, obhlížel jsem cestu B. I. G. ve Flatangeru, i DNA ve Francii. Kdyby se jedna z nich podařila, byl by to velký úspěch.

V posledních měsících přišly pro vás dobré zprávy v podobě přidělení světového šampionátu do Brna v roce 2027 a rozdělení disciplín na tři sady medailí při olympijských hrách v Los Angeles v roce 2028. Dodaly vám i novou motivaci k tréninku na stěně?

Snažím se tu motivaci na závody nevyčerpat a tahle sezona je výjimečná, protože mám víc času na aktuální lezení. Až se bude blížit mistrovství světa v roce 2027 a olympiáda, tak se zase přeorientuju víc na závodní lezení. Bylo jasné, že kdyby nepadlo rozhodnutí, že se disciplíny na olympiádě osamostatní, tak bych se o Los Angeles nepokoušel. Takhle vím, že mám aspoň nějakou šanci.

This news was originally published on this post .

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